Today we learned a valuable lesson. Just because the French don’t generally wear shorts or flip-flops, it’s not a good idea to go sightseeing wearing a black t-shirt, long black pants, and boots. Thank goodness for Lyon’s excellent public transit system. And that’s all I’m going to say about that.
On a happier note, I love walking the dog here.
We decided to be tourists today, so we took a trip to the old town for lunch and a funicular ride up to the basilica. I’m not sure when we became funicular people, but we’ve taken them in Lisbon, Barcelona and now Lyon.
When we walk towards the Sâone, we pass this gorgeous neo-gothic church. I’m pretty sure it’s the only church with a plaque commemorating the uprising of local prostitutes (although if you know of any others, I’d love to hear about them!). It’s a pretty rad piece of local culture. Back in 1975, a group of 100 women took over the church to protest their poor treatment and harassment by the police. The locals were supportive, and the parish priest refused to call the police to kick them out. I give the prostitutes a little mental salute every time I walk past their plaque.
On our way to the old town, we walked through the local outdoor market. It’s there from Tuesday to Sunday, and you can get everything from fruits and vegetables to fancy olives to an entire fish. Kristian has been moseying over there in the mornings when we’re still asleep and then surprising us with different fruits to have with breakfast. It’s a great way to practice speaking french, because everything is labeled and the merchants have all been patient with us.
Our path took us through the ruins of an ancient cathedral, one of the few places where I have seen a sign saying “no dogs.”
We ate lunch at a bouchon. Bouchons began as small inns where silk weavers ate. They serve hearty fare (weaving isn’t exactly an easy profession) that isn’t fancy, but is well made. They serve a lot of traditional foods, like salade lyonnaise, quenelles and tripe stew.
We said we would like to sit outside, but actually, inside wouldn’t be so bad either. Which is how we ended up in our own little private nook in a breezeway. (actually, all the empty tables outside were reserved, but I like my version better).
After lunch, we took the funicular up to the basilica. I really do love a funicular. They’re always painted in joyful colors, you usually get a cool view, and they feel a little bit like a ride. This particular funicular goes up and down on one track, so while we were waiting we got to watch the driver get out and run to the other side of the carriage to reverse direction.
The Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourvière dominates the view of the west side of the city. We intentionally didn’t visit on our scouting trip back in April, because we wanted to go with Lilian. I’m glad we waited, because they really loved the architecture.
We lit a candle in memory of my father-in-law. We’re not a religious family, but Lilian loves lighting a candle for her abuelo when we visit churches and cathedrals.
The view from the outside of the basilica is incredible. You can see just about the entire city from there (you do have to maneuver around the trees to see some sections). They also do rooftop tours, where you can see in every direction. I think I might need to get over my fear of heights and book tickets for one of those. As you can see, most of Lyon is pretty flat and there are only a few skyscrapers. The northwest section of the city is one giant hill. Thus, the funicular.
We also walked through the ruins of an ancient theater, but I don’t have much to say about that. This may or may not be where we discovered that all black and a 75 degree day don’t mix. They still host performances there, so I guess now we have an excuse to go back.
We got home and had a little “goûter.” It’s an afternoon snack that’s really meant for children. But I’m just so young at heart, I had to have some tea and biscuits. Instagram keeps telling me that the best goûter is a slice of baguette with butter and a piece of chocolate. Which I thought was an elaborate prank being pulled by french influencers. But it’s right there on wikipedia (and in french, no less) so now I think we need to try it. For science! Or something.
After expanding their culinary horizons at lunch (they had a quenelle which is just about the antithesis of food in America), Lilian wanted something that felt more like something they’re used to eating at home. Their first request (bones of their enemies) wasn’t available, so we had soup and grilled cheese. With emmental and comté, because we’re gonna get them used to french cheese by hook or by crook.
We capped the day with a walk to get ice cream. I’d show you a photo, but I was too busy eating my scoop of orange meringue. Lilian had pralines and nociolla, so I guess they were feeling slightly adventurous again.
Tomorrow being Sunday, I think we will be ready for a day of rest! Or a picnic in the park. We’ll see.
Love your descriptions of your new adventure!! Thanks so much!