Rentrée Spice Season

This week marks “rentrée,” the official end of summer and the beginning of work and school. Most of France took the month of August off, so rentrée is also a time for grumping about the end of vacation time. The August downtime has its own name (estival) and it’s one of the best and worst things about living here. It’s awesome that everyone gets time off! It’s a beautiful contrast to hustle culture. But, it sure is a pain in the ass if you need anything official done. Tell a local that you need something done quickly in August and they’ll just laugh at you.

A sign in French stating that the store will be closed from Monday, August 3, to Monday, August 31.

I’m still waiting on my Carte de Sejour, but I knew that nothing was going to happen with my paperwork in August. Now that more people are back at work, I can reach out to the Prefecture and ask for a status update. There was honestly no reason to bother while everyone was out.

Estival can also make it hard to get things from the stores or the markets. The vast majority of boutiques in our area have been closed. A good chunk of the restaurants have been closed as well. Even the marché near us has been a ghost town. We’ve still been able to get plenty of fresh fruits and veggies, but there were a lot fewer choices. Today was the first producer’s market (local produce only) of September and most of the vendors were back.

It was kindof nice to have Lyon so quiet during the heat waves, though. I thought that I’d be lonely when I was here on my own, but it turns out it’s nice to have things feel a little more peaceful. There’s something about that intense heat that makes you crave a little extra space, you know?

The city is bustling again. The outdoor seating areas of the bars and restaurants near us are all crowded. The student hangout downstairs is open again and has been full of happy hour merriment.

Lilian kneels on a wooden floor, playfully interacting with Lumi the husky and smiling at the camera
This is as close as she’ll let me get to a back to school portrait.

Lilian is back at school this week. Yesterday, Kristian and I went to the orientation for the international section. It turns out we didn’t actually need to go (Kristian misread the schedule, oops), but it was nice to see how much more French we understood this time around. I looked around the room and saw a lot of wide eyes and tense shoulders. It’s almost hard to believe that was us last year. We still get overwhelmed and anxious, but we’re a lot more comfortable navigating life here. I guess we’re the wizened veterans now!

Lilian had orientation today. She’s happy with her schedule (she texted me that it was “kinda goated ngl”), although it will probably change. She starts the year with extra hours of French classes to make sure she’s comfortable. The big difference is that she’ll be in more classes with French language instruction. Last year, she had exceptions for things like science, history/geography (French version) and technology. This year, she’ll be gradually mainstreamed. It will be a challenge for her, but I know what she can rise to the occasion!

Today was Kristian’s first day at school as well. He’s taking a two-week French language intensive. I asked him if I could make him a twee “My First Day of Classes” sign. But, as always, he said no.

(Spoilsport)

I’ll start some classes of my own later this fall. I’m doing not one, but two “formations” (training courses). I’ll be learning how to give (volunteer) guided tours at the basilica here. I’m also doing aerial hoop teacher training! This is something I’ve been dreaming about for a few years now, so I’m really excited about it. I’m still not entirely sure what my teaching options will be, but I’m excited to learn how. I’ve got a little pipe dream of teaching people like me who are older/bigger than your stereotypical aerialist. I want to create a space where everyone feels welcomed and included.

Usually I’m a little wistful when summer is over, but honestly I’m just happy that the end of the heat waves is in sight. Sweater season, baby!

Happy rentrée, everyone.


I’ll tell you what rentrée is not a time for, and that is pumpkin spice anything.

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